From left, pre-fall 2023 looks from Stella McCartney, Chanel, Christopher John Rogers, Max Mara, and Del Core.
Tailoring is the take-away trend of the 2023 pre-fall collections. Designers, like many of the rest of us, are looking for a bit of order post-pandemic, and as we enter a new year. A suit, be it a jacket with pants, skirts, or shorts is one way to look sharp and pulled together, but the neat thing about a tailleur is that it is also the basis of a mix-and-match modular wardrobe. You can pair a suit blazer with a distressed denim mini or wear a vest as a stand-alone top rather than as a layering piece, etc., etc. While silhouette options are many, the full-legged pantsuit leads the pre-fall pack, and short suits (for men and women) are a close second.
This in-between season must cater to all climes, and heating things up in 2023 are a selection of deep pile statement coats. Also “hot?” Boudoir dresses with a vampy Butterfield 8 vibe. These stand in contrast to airy, lacy dresses in innocent white, which are another theme of the season.
There’s a lot of post-war energy in popular culture now; with the cult of Marilyn and the upcoming Barbie movie being just two examples. Designers added the Golden Age of Couture to that list. Not only are there big occasion looks, but models struck poses that could have been borrowed from 1950s issues of Vogue. Couture nostalgia might explain the appearance of peplums (romantic or utilitarian versions are available), as well as the 360-degree attention to details (note the many back bows).
Thankfully fashion’s fascination with the 2000s is less overt than of late, but the slouchy jean of the season is a not too distant relative of rave-ready JNCO jeans; and the skirt/dress–over–pants styling trick looks back to the early days of influencers. Like the rest of us, creatives have been glued to the television set, and in breezy looks that seemed destined for the Italian Riviera one could see hints of Cinecittà—and the omnipresent White Lotus.
Suit Yourself
Tailoring is the main message of the season. Pants can be worn puddled or cropped, full or narrow, but a suit—in whatever variation—offers a sartorial one-two punch.
Victoria Beckham, pre-fall 2023
Brandon Maxwell, pre-fall 2023
Stella McCartney, pre-fall 2023
MM6 Maison Margiela, pre-fall 2023
3.1 Phillip Lim, pre-fall 2023
R13, Pre-fall 2023
Chloe, Pre-fall 2023
Rosetta Getty, pre-fall 2023
Proenza Schouler, pre-fall 2023
Alberta Ferretti, pre-fall 2023
Ermanno Scervino, pre-fall 2023
Short Takes
No matter what Emily Post might think, designers are pushing for short suits as officewear for men and women alike.
Thom Browne, pre-fall 2023
Max Mara, pre-fall 2023
The Row, pre-fall 2023
St. John, pre-fall 2023
The Row, pre-fall 2023
Givenchy, pre-fall 2023
Nili Lotan, pre-fall 2023
Etro, pre-fall 2023
Dundas, pre-fall 2023
Molta Bella
*White Lotus–*meets–Cinecittà in breezy looks that seemed destined for the Italian Riviera.
Christopher John Rogers, pre-fall 2023
Christian Dior, pre-fall 2023
Markarian, pre-fall 2023
Tanya Taylor, pre-fall 2023
Adeam, pre-fall 2023
Derek Lam 10 Crosby, pre-fall 2023
Peplum Rally
Waist-not your fashion history lessons: Wear a peplum.
Palmer Harding, pre-fall 2023
Chanel, pre-fall 2023
Moschino, pre-fall 2023
Judy Turner, pre-fall 2023
Brandon Maxwell, pre-fall 2023
Erdem, pre-fall 2023
JNCO Squad
Rave on in denim of generous proportions.
Givenchy, pre-fall 2023
Diesel, pre-fall 2023
Brandon Maxwell, pre-fall 2023
Rosetta Getty, pre-fall 2023
Proenza Schouler, pre-fall 2023
Brandon Maxwell, pre-fall 2023
R13, pre-fall 2023
MM6 Maison Margiela, pre-fall 2023
Once Over
Designers are so pants-focused for pre-fall that they resurrected the short-over-long look of wearing a skirt or dress over trousers.
Chanel, pre-fall 2023
Diesel, pre-fall 2023
Johanna Ortiz, pre-fall 2023
Dior Men, pre-fall 2023 menswear
MM6 Maison Margiela, pre-fall 2023
Lafayette 148, pre-fall 2023
Thom Browne, pre-fall 2023 menswear
Staud, pre-fall 2023
Moschino, pre-fall 2023
Thom Browne, pre-fall 2023
Nehera, pre-fall 2023
Maria McManus, pre-fall 2023
Roberto Cavalli, pre-fall 2023 menswear
Christian Dior, pre-fall 2023
Moschino, pre-fall 2023
By Malene Birger, pre-fall 2023
Balmain, pre-fall 2023 menswear
Plush Strokes
Fuzzy statement coats are pre-fall’s key investment pieces.
Max Mara, pre-fall 2023
Del Core, pre-fall 2023
Balmain, pre-fall 2023
Louis Vuitton, pre-fall 2023 menswear
Dior Men, pre-fall 2023 menswear
Sweet (and Sexy) Nothings
Lingerie is out from under, and it’s not going back anytime soon.
Dundas, pre-fall 2023
Christopher John Rogers, pre-fall 2023
Alberta Ferretti, pre-fall 2023
Victoria Beckham, pre-fall 2023
No. 21, pre-fall 2023
Jil Sander, pre-fall 2023
Givenchy, pre-fall 2023
3.1 Phillip Lim, pre-fall 2023
Alessandra Rich, pre-fall 2023
Moschino, pre-fall 2023
Cloud Nine
For pure delight add a lacy white dress to your wardrobe.
Sea, pre-fall 2023
The Row, pre-fall 2023
Jil Sander, pre-fall 2023
Chanel, pre-fall 2023
Parting Shots
Back details are a reminder that fashion is a sort of theater in the round.
Del Core, pre-fall 2023
Christopher John Rogers, pre-fall 2023
Victoria Beckham, pre-fall 2023
Del Core, pre-fall 2023
Christian Dior, pre-fall 2023
Erdem, pre-fall 2023
BY LAIRD BORRELLI-PERSSON
January 9, 2023
Vogue.com