The ready-to-wear shows are starting in less than two weeks, but already we’ve seen some incredible women’s fashion at the men’s shows (and not just because we were on Tár-watch, imagining the looks from the collections that Lydia Tár, played by Cate Blanchett in the Academy Award-nominated film Tár, might wear). Perhaps because their main focus is menswear, these clothes often have a different point of view from women’s style—and seem closer to an utopian vision of gender-neutral fashion. While some designers lean into the contrast of classically gendered clothes, others instead show the same shapes and silhouettes; baggy trousers and jackets, maxi skirts, and chunky knits on models of all gender presentations.

Photo: Daniele Oberrauch /

Officine Générale Photo: Isidore Montag /

Our Legacy Photo: Isak Berglund Mattsson-Mårn / Courtesy of Our Legacy

Officine Générale was all about smart, sleek clothes with a hint of sophistication that never abandoned the most essential feeling of ease. Photo: Isidore Montag /

Sacai. Maxi skirts—for everyone—were everywhere this season. photo: Filippo Fior /

Lemaire Photo: Lena Emery / Courtesy of Lemaire

Junichi Abe’s collection for Kolor featured deconstructed and layered shirts, jackets, and pants in earthy shades. Photo: Alessandro Lucioni /

Officine Générale Photo: Isidore Montag /

Ami founder Alexandre Mattiussi had one of the best casts this season, highlighting models of a certain age like Malgosia Bela, Audrey Marnay, and most notably, the actress Charlotte Rampling, who closed the show in a slouchy navy blue suit. Photo: Filippo Fior /


January 27, 2023